Quotes of the Day

Ask any Indophile about travel in the subcontinent, and he'll regale you with tales of bobsledding buses in the Himalayas, great, late trains and the thrill of being in a rickshaw driven by the blind and carefree. "It's all part of the fun," he'll chuckle as he starts in on the night he once shared with a shepherd, two nuns and a flatulent elephant on the Calcutta Express. But while the romance of the Indian road undoubtedly endures, even seasoned voyagers find the charms of New Delhi's choking, lawless traffic fairly thin. There is simply a limit to how many times stray cows or small children in the fast lane can make you laugh. So, six years after the initial phase of the project began, the Indian capital is applauding the news that on Christmas Day the first part of a $2.3 billion state-of-the-art metro system is due to open. Residents, in fact, are in disbelief. "Apparently, it's going to start on time," hushed dinner-party conversation goes. "I know, and they say you'll be able to get your tickets from a machine." "Have you seen the carriages? They're clean."

Visitors may find it hard to work up the same level of excitement over a functioning transport network. But together with a new system of traffic-thinning overpasses, the closure of smoke-belching factories and the forced conversion of thousands of gasoline-powered rickshaws into natural-gas ones, they, like residents, will discover that New Delhi is suddenly able to offer oases of, er, rest and tranquillity.

The city, whose roadside casualty toll averages five deaths and 13 serious injuries a day and where the number of vehicles—4 million—is more than Bombay's, Calcutta's and Madras' combined, is still a long way from becoming a Vancouver or a Sydney. But since 1995, pollution levels have dropped 25%, says Dilip Biswas, chairman of the Central Pollution Control Board. No longer does every other Delhi-ite suffer from a respiratory disease. Walkers in the city's many parks now leave their face masks at home. As Biswas says, "Sulfur dioxide in the air is within prescribed limits, and suspended particle matter has also come down." And, more poetically, "Now you can see the stars at night."

To take advantage of those rare smog-free days, go for a stroll along the broad, grassy Rajpath avenue, New Delhi's Champs Elysées. Featuring the President's residence with its ornamental lakes on either side and India Gate, it is on every tour of India's capital. But with distant views disappearing into the daytime haze, Rajpath can also be an uncomfortable reminder of how far New Delhi is from breathing easy. Early evening, however, when the congestion eases and the monuments are illuminated, is a joy. For a quick history lesson, head southeast to the 16th century Humayun's Tomb. This red-and-white building is one of the finest monuments in the city and worth the trip alone. But the complex also contains the tomb of nobleman Isa Khan, considered by many to be New Delhi's finest Mughal monument. The neighboring zoo, nestled on the banks of the Yamuna River, with its formal gardens, makes it another haven of urban peace. A short trip farther north is the Purana Qila (old fort), whose towering ramparts offer fine views of the city.

Perhaps the best spot to enjoy the capital's new low-tar greenery is Lodi Garden. This well-kept park in the city center encloses some pleasant, leafy walks as well as a number of 15th century tombs, including that of ruler Mohammad Shah of the Sayyid dynasty, which is an early example of the style that would later culminate in the Taj Mahal. More importantly, it is also home to the Lodi Garden Restaurant, a delightful upmarket establishment that distinguishes itself by combining in one place all four rarities of the New Delhi dining scene: outdoor tables, palatable Continental food, a liquor license and (holy cow!) steak. At $25-$50 a head for a meal with wine, prices are monstrous by Indian standards. But there can be few better evenings in the city than one that starts with a stroll through the gardens, past lily ponds and cricket games, and finishes with chicken liver pâté on toast and a glass of Saint-Emilion; call (91-11) 465 5054 or 465 2808 for reservations.

With all this wide-open space, some visitors may feel they're missing out on the real New Delhi. Those who fancy some authentic hustle and bustle need look no further than the crushingly congested Chandni Chowk area. Even though the metro will open here first, it's unlikely to provide much relief to the maze of hawkers and shopkeepers, donkeys and camels, trucks and bicycle rickshaws, selling everything from myrrh to liquid mercury to Mickey Mouse dolls. Only hardened Delhi hands can manage much more than a few hours of this kind of chaos. But these days, escape is no longer an Indian odyssey away.

• Alex Perry
• Signs of life in New Delhi